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--- when_things_go_wrong [2016/02/22 09:11]
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+++ when_things_go_wrong [2016/02/22 09:35]
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 ===== Starting to sew on the edge =====
-When starting to sew on the edge, f.ex. when stitching a tunnel for a drawstring or top stitching the edges of a jacket, I discovered that it is important to hold on to the threads while starting that first stitch. If there is not enough tension on the threads the first stitches may not form properly.
+When starting to sew on the edge, f.ex. when stitching a tunnel for a drawstring or top stitching the edges of a jacket, I discovered that it is important to hold on to the threads while starting that first stitch. If there is not enough tension on the threads, the first stitches may not form properly.
 In the image below the stitching was supposed to start right on the edge.
 {{:going_wrong:first_stitches_missed.jpg?|}}
@@ Line 96: / Line 96: @@
 ===== Thread, what kind? =====
+I have no fool proof recipe for thread choice. Both cheap and expensive and everything in between may work well. In my opinion it is important to differentiate between what looks good and what works. A particular thread may have a beautiful quality, sheen, color etc.. but if it does not unwind well it may cause skipped stitches or irregular stitches. Please notice the image below with two samples of turquoise thread, Gütermann on the left and an overlock quality on the right. The stitches with the overlock thread are more regular on the looper side but the needle threads of the Gütermann show off nicer on the needle side. As a hobbyist I do not want to invest in various cones of high quality sewing thread, which exist but are usually not available in the average haberdashery shop or department. So I try to work around this challenge.
+{{:going_wrong:gutermann_versus_overlock_thread.jpg?|}}
+On the whole I get the best results with thread that unwinds freely. Cones are more likely to unwind well. Plastic spools may have tiny irregularities so if I remember, I put a slightly larger spool cap on top of those for coverstitching. Spools with a paper core may work very well or not at all.
+Please notice from left to right the light blue and turquoise spools with a paper core. The light blue always produces great results and the turquoise always causes some kind of irregularity. The difference is in the way the thread is wound. Notice the soft rounded edge on the light blue one and the straight edge on the turquoise one? The turquoise thread tends to get stuck briefly sometimes as it reaches the end of the spool before unwinding in the other direction. Sometimes placing the spool so that the thread unwinds counter clockwise lessens the risk of irregularities.
 {{:going_wrong:different_threads.jpg?|}}

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