Differences

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--- binding [2017/10/10 12:05]
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+++ binding [2017/10/10 22:25]
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 ===== The binder accessory =====
-Binders come in a variety of sizes and types with specific attachment plates or generic ones. I prefer to keep binding simple. When I am binding one t-shirt neckline with self fabric, it isn't worth the trouble using a binder IMO. It takes some time to position the binder and when I am working with cotton lycra knits, the strips tend to curl towards the right side across the grain which makes it difficult to feed and fold the binding properly. Some people like using starch, but this again takes time. It is just as easy to attach the strip with a serger or with the chain stitch, then fold it and top stitch with a double needle narrow coverstitch as illustrated above.
+Binders come in a variety of sizes and types with specific attachment plates or generic ones. I prefer to keep binding simple. When I am binding 1 t-shirt neckline with self fabric, it isn't worth the trouble using a binder IMO. It takes some time to position the binder and when I am working with cotton lycra knit, the tape tends to curl towards the right side across the grain which makes it difficult to feed and fold the strip in the binder. Some people like using starch, but this again takes time. It is just as easy to attach the strip with a serger or with the chain stitch, then fold it and top stitch with a double needle narrow coverstitch as illustrated above.
-If you want to learn how to get the stretch just right, I suggest that you cut a couple of small test half necklines from scraps. Then try attaching the binding tape with the chain stitch. When you get to the end, don't tie off but lift the presser foot and turn the hand wheel a full turn backwards. That way the last stitch will unlock. Now press your fingers on the threads so they don't come undone and remove the test piece. Then you can look at the result and decide if you need to stretch more or less. Simply remove the threads by pulling the looper thread and you can start over. I did this like 6 to 12 times and after that I had developed a reasonable feeling for the job.
+If you want to learn how to get the stretch just right, I suggest that you cut a couple of test half necklines from scraps. Then try attaching the binding tape with the chain stitch. When you get to the end, don't tie off but lift the presser foot and turn the hand wheel a full turn backwards. That way the last stitch will unlock. Now press your fingers on the threads so they don't come undone and remove the test piece. Then you can look at the result and decide if you need to stretch more or less. Then simply remove the stitches and start over. It took me 6 to 12 tries to develop a reasonable feeling for the job.
 Binders are great however for making a dozen onesies or several t-shirts, pajama's or underwear that requires a lot of binding. My preferred type and size is the A-style, cut size 28mm / 1 and 1/8". A-style means that the binding tape is folded on top and not folded at the bottom.
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 ==== Positioning and adjusting the settings ====
-The binding tape can be put onto a tape reel holder which is available online. Just make sure to study your situation and whether it is possible to install the clamp to attach the reel holder to the sewing table.
+The binding tape can be put onto a tape reel holder which is available online. Before deciding on one of those,  make sure to study your situation and whether it is possible to install the clamp to attach the reel holder to the sewing table.
-Or you can make your own
 {{:binding:continuous:babylock_with_binding_tape_reel_holder_with_clamp.jpg?400|}}
-{{:binding:continuous:positioning_binder_on_babylock_using_needles_1_and_2.jpg?400|}}
+Or you can make your own tape holder using a cone thread stand. You will also need a giant straw, the kind that my child 'had to have' in Disneyland because it went through Cinderella's body, and I worried how I was going to keep this clean and finally, it proves to be useful. LOL Then pick a cone, preferably full, 5000m and upside down to provide as wide a base as possible. Now put a CD on top to provide a smooth base for the reel to unwind on. Make sure to put the tape so it unwinds counterclockwise with the wrong side facing you.
 {{:binding:continuous:how_to_make_your_own_tape_holder.jpg?400|}}
+I am sharing some differences form my experience between binding on the Babylock Coverstitch and the Janome 2000CPX. If your experience is different and you are happy with the results, just ignore this.
+On my Babylock I get the best results using the left and center needle. When positioning the binder, I pull some of the binding through and position it under the presser foot and I lower the needles by hand. Only then do I screw the binder firmly in place. The Babylock has 2 holes in the bed of the machine and most generic binders can be screwed on without extra accessories.
+{{:binding:continuous:positioning_binder_on_babylock_using_needles_1_and_2.jpg?400|}}
+When inserting the tape, it can be woven through the rake, either using all the teeth or just 1 or 2. This will put more or less tension on the binding resulting in a more gathered or more relaxed edge.
 {{:binding:continuous:homemade_reel_binding_going_through_some_teeth_of_the_rake.jpg?400|}}
+On my Janome 2000CPX I get the best results using the center and right needle with the adjustable seam guide keeping the binding from wandering off to the right. Thanks Rebecca for this great idea!!
 {{:binding:continuous:janome_with_adjustable_seam_guide.jpg?400|}}
+SETTINGS for binding on both machines:
+Needles 4.5
+Looper 2.5 (TIGHT for the Janome 2000 CPX)
 {{:binding:continuous:lightly_gathered_edge.jpg?400|}}

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