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the_janome_2000_cpx [2015/06/02 10:04] hilde_beerens |
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Lowering the tension on the left needle thread by about 1 point compared to the setting for the right and/or middle needle seems to result in a much more balanced stitch and a stretchy hem. | Lowering the tension on the left needle thread by about 1 point compared to the setting for the right and/or middle needle seems to result in a much more balanced stitch and a stretchy hem. | ||
- | The reason for this may be something like this: one layer of fabric offers less resistance to the needle thread and it gets pulled up higher as the needle moves up again. The result is that the left needle thread leaves a smaller loop (see illustration left) than the right needle thread which has to move through 2 layers. When stretched across the grain this may cause discomfort f.ex. when pulling up a sleeve. When I add a stretch thread in the looper to this challenge, I get a taut hem with varying degrees of tunnelling depending on the weight of the fabric. The needle thread tensions on the following illustration worked well for a particular fabric/thread combination but please, do not take these settings as absolute values! Different thread types and brands may perform better with different settings. Please feel free to experiment. | + | The reason for this may be something like this: one layer of fabric offers less resistance to the needle thread and it gets pulled up higher as the needle moves up again. The result is that the left needle thread leaves a smaller loop (see illustration left) than the right needle thread which has to move through 2 layers. When stretched across the grain this may cause discomfort f.ex. when pulling up a sleeve. When I add a stretch thread in the looper to this challenge, the thread will relax to its original length after the stitch has formed. This causes a taut hem with varying degrees of tunnelling depending on the weight of the fabric. The needle thread tensions on the following illustration worked well for a particular fabric/thread combination but please, do not take these settings as absolute values! Different thread types and brands may perform better with different settings. Please feel free to experiment. |
{{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:illustration_tunnelling.jpg?800x600|}} | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:illustration_tunnelling.jpg?800x600|}} | ||
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===== Reverse coverstitching hems ===== | ===== Reverse coverstitching hems ===== | ||
- | When I reverse stitch a hem, both needles go through the same number of layers and for the next sample I used these | + | You may want to check out more about reverse stitching hems [[Hemming#Preparing for reverse stitching|here]]. When I reverse stitch a hem, both needles go through the same number of layers and for the next sample I used these |
- | SETTINGS: | + | SETTINGS for the Janome Cover Pro: |
+ | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:settings_for_reverse_coverstitching.jpg?800x600|}} | ||
Needles left 5 right 4 | Needles left 5 right 4 | ||
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Looper 1.5 | Looper 1.5 | ||
- | SOFT | + | TIGHT |
Stitch length 3 and a bit | Stitch length 3 and a bit | ||
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===== Getting over those humps ===== | ===== Getting over those humps ===== | ||
- | It may be useful to help the pressure foot move over those little humps at the side seam f.ex. Sometimes a hump will be sewn beautifully by just going slowly but other times there may be a movement resulting in unsightly pleads or skipped stitches. When using a hump jumper, I stop sewing with the needles down, lift the pressure foot and place the hump jumper behind the needles. It is also possible to use a piece of folded fabric to do the job. Here I am not using the hump jumper the way it is supposed to be used because I prefer to slide it behind the needles from the side as seen in the following image. | + | It may be useful to help the pressure foot move over those little humps at the side seam f.ex. Sometimes a hump will be sewn beautifully by just going slowly but other times there may be a movement resulting in unsightly pleats or skipped stitches. When using a hump jumper, I stop sewing with the needles down, lift the pressure foot and place the hump jumper behind the needles. It is also possible to use a piece of folded fabric to do the job. Here I am not using the hump jumper the way it is supposed to be used because I prefer to slide it behind the needles from the side as seen in the following image. |
{{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:using_the_hump_jumper_for_reverse_stitching_and_led_light_zero_effect.jpg?800x600|}} | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:using_the_hump_jumper_for_reverse_stitching_and_led_light_zero_effect.jpg?800x600|}} | ||
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{{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:snipped_bottom_versus_not_snipped_top.jpg?800x600|}} | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:snipped_bottom_versus_not_snipped_top.jpg?800x600|}} | ||
- | And here is what that looks like from he wrong side; bottom one snipped versus top hem not snipped. | + | And here is what that looks like from he wrong side; top one snipped versus bottom hem not snipped. |
{{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:snipped_top_versus_not_snipped_bottom_wrong_side.jpg?800x600|}} | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:snipped_top_versus_not_snipped_bottom_wrong_side.jpg?800x600|}} | ||
To be honest, I have been sewing my hems on my Babylock Coverstitch for years without much snipping and I seldom worry about perfectly wrapping the edge of the hem. So far I have avoided testing settings for the needles by stitching a few millimeters away from the edge like [[Hemming#Avoiding tunnelling|this]]. But it is always nice to have options. Or is it? As they say in French: "l'embarras du choix!" I am now facing the burden of choice. ;-) | To be honest, I have been sewing my hems on my Babylock Coverstitch for years without much snipping and I seldom worry about perfectly wrapping the edge of the hem. So far I have avoided testing settings for the needles by stitching a few millimeters away from the edge like [[Hemming#Avoiding tunnelling|this]]. But it is always nice to have options. Or is it? As they say in French: "l'embarras du choix!" I am now facing the burden of choice. ;-) | ||
- | + | If you have questions, suggestions or need help with choosing, please join us at https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hilde.Coverstitch/ | |
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- | ===== Sample Hems ===== | + | |
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- | ===== Reverse cover stitching ===== | + | |
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- | When reverse coverstitching hems with all needles piercing 2 layers of fabric, I use the TIGHT setting with all purpose thread in the looper. I have not tried reverse stitching with stretch thread because I don't like the way it tends to hook into things. | + | |
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- | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:settings_for_reverse_coverstitching.jpg?200|}} | + |