the_janome_2000_cpx
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the_janome_2000_cpx [2015/06/02 09:52] hilde_beerens |
the_janome_2000_cpx [2015/06/02 10:11] hilde_beerens |
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| ====== The Janome 2000 CPX ====== | ====== The Janome 2000 CPX ====== | ||
| - | ===== What's different? ===== | + | ===== What's different for hemming? ===== |
| - | Much of the information about hemming with the Babylock CoverStitch also applies to the Janome. For good results I suggest checking out [[hemming|this]]. | + | Much of the information about hemming with the Babylock CoverStitch also applies to the Janome. For good results I suggest checking out [[hemming|this]] first. |
| Here I would like to share some of the differences I have noticed between the two brands. I notice that I tend to use the same differential settings but a slightly longer stitch length on the Janome (on average 3 and a bit on the Janome versus 2.75 on the Babylock. I also notice that the Janome performs better when stitching slowly and it is easy to go slowly. Both machines have exactly the same model foot controller but for some reason the one on the Babylock is hard to keep from racing and the Janome one allows for sewing at a gentle pace. | Here I would like to share some of the differences I have noticed between the two brands. I notice that I tend to use the same differential settings but a slightly longer stitch length on the Janome (on average 3 and a bit on the Janome versus 2.75 on the Babylock. I also notice that the Janome performs better when stitching slowly and it is easy to go slowly. Both machines have exactly the same model foot controller but for some reason the one on the Babylock is hard to keep from racing and the Janome one allows for sewing at a gentle pace. | ||
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| Lowering the tension on the left needle thread by about 1 point compared to the setting for the right and/or middle needle seems to result in a much more balanced stitch and a stretchy hem. | Lowering the tension on the left needle thread by about 1 point compared to the setting for the right and/or middle needle seems to result in a much more balanced stitch and a stretchy hem. | ||
| - | The reason for this may be something like this: one layer of fabric offers less resistance to the needle thread and it gets pulled up higher as the needle moves up again. The result is that the left needle thread leaves a smaller loop (see illustration left) than the right needle thread which has to move through 2 layers. When stretched across the grain this may cause discomfort f.ex. when pulling up a sleeve. When I add a stretch thread in the looper to this challenge, I get a taut hem with varying degrees of tunnelling depending on the weight of the fabric. The needle thread tensions on the following illustration worked well for a particular fabric/thread combination but please, do not take these settings as absolute values! Different thread types and brands may perform better with different settings. Please feel free to experiment. | + | The reason for this may be something like this: one layer of fabric offers less resistance to the needle thread and it gets pulled up higher as the needle moves up again. The result is that the left needle thread leaves a smaller loop (see illustration left) than the right needle thread which has to move through 2 layers. When stretched across the grain this may cause discomfort f.ex. when pulling up a sleeve. When I add a stretch thread in the looper to this challenge, the thread will relax to its original length after the stitch has formed. This causes a taut hem with varying degrees of tunnelling depending on the weight of the fabric. The needle thread tensions on the following illustration worked well for a particular fabric/thread combination but please, do not take these settings as absolute values! Different thread types and brands may perform better with different settings. Please feel free to experiment. |
| {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:illustration_tunnelling.jpg?800x600|}} | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:illustration_tunnelling.jpg?800x600|}} | ||
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| ===== Reverse coverstitching hems ===== | ===== Reverse coverstitching hems ===== | ||
| - | When I reverse stitch a hem, both needles go through the same number of layers and for the next sample I used these | + | You may want to check out more about reverse stitching hems [[Hemming#Preparing for reverse stitching|here]]. When I reverse stitch a hem, both needles go through the same number of layers and for the next sample I used these |
| SETTINGS: | SETTINGS: | ||
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| ===== Getting over those humps ===== | ===== Getting over those humps ===== | ||
| - | It may be useful to help the pressure foot move over those little humps at the side seam f.ex. I stop sewing with the needles down, lift the pressure foot and place the hump jumper behind the needles. It is also possible to use a piece of folded fabric to do the job. I am not using the hump jumper the way it is supposed to be used but I prefer to slide it behind the needles from the side as seen in the following image. | + | It may be useful to help the pressure foot move over those little humps at the side seam f.ex. Sometimes a hump will be sewn beautifully by just going slowly but other times there may be a movement resulting in unsightly pleads or skipped stitches. When using a hump jumper, I stop sewing with the needles down, lift the pressure foot and place the hump jumper behind the needles. It is also possible to use a piece of folded fabric to do the job. Here I am not using the hump jumper the way it is supposed to be used because I prefer to slide it behind the needles from the side as seen in the following image. |
| {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:using_the_hump_jumper_for_reverse_stitching_and_led_light_zero_effect.jpg?800x600|}} | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:using_the_hump_jumper_for_reverse_stitching_and_led_light_zero_effect.jpg?800x600|}} | ||
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| Another way of easing the pressure foot over the hump is to reduce it by snipping the side seam like [[Hemming#Snipping the side seam|this]]. | Another way of easing the pressure foot over the hump is to reduce it by snipping the side seam like [[Hemming#Snipping the side seam|this]]. | ||
| - | The following image shows the right side of two hems with the top one not snipped and the bottom one snipped and how the result is even more pleasing to the neatnic eye! | + | The following image shows the right side of two hems with the top one not snipped and the bottom one snipped and how the result is even more pleasing to the neatnik eye! |
| - | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:snipped_top_versus_not_snipped_bottom_wrong_side.jpg?800x600|}} | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | And here what that looks like from he wrong side; bottom one snipped versus top hem not snipped. | + | |
| {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:snipped_bottom_versus_not_snipped_top.jpg?800x600|}} | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:snipped_bottom_versus_not_snipped_top.jpg?800x600|}} | ||
| - | To be honest I have been sewing my hems on my Babylock Coverstitch for years without much snipping and I seldom worry about perfectly wrapping the edge of the hem. So far I have avoided testing settings for the needles by stitching a few millimeters away from the edge like [[Hemming#Avoiding tunnelling|this]]. But it is always nice to have options. Is it? As they say in French: "l'embarras du choix!" | + | And here is what that looks like from he wrong side; bottom one snipped versus top hem not snipped. |
| + | {{:janome_cover_pro_2000_cpx:snipped_top_versus_not_snipped_bottom_wrong_side.jpg?800x600|}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | To be honest, I have been sewing my hems on my Babylock Coverstitch for years without much snipping and I seldom worry about perfectly wrapping the edge of the hem. So far I have avoided testing settings for the needles by stitching a few millimeters away from the edge like [[Hemming#Avoiding tunnelling|this]]. But it is always nice to have options. Or is it? As they say in French: "l'embarras du choix!" I am now facing the burden of choice. ;-) | ||
the_janome_2000_cpx.txt · Last modified: 2017/08/12 00:04 by 192.168.1.194
