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projects_for_the_coverstitch_machine [2017/10/09 14:43] 192.168.1.194 |
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In this jacket I have used coverstitching for several purposes. | In this jacket I have used coverstitching for several purposes. | ||
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+ | {{:projects:zippered_jacket_finished.jpg?800|}} | ||
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I started by picking two matching fabrics, neither of them large enough for a complete project. I made a copy of the drawing on the pattern and tried some color blocking options with crayons. For the sleeves I decided on lapped seams and you can read more about this overlay method [[Overlay patchwork#Another overlay method|here]]. | I started by picking two matching fabrics, neither of them large enough for a complete project. I made a copy of the drawing on the pattern and tried some color blocking options with crayons. For the sleeves I decided on lapped seams and you can read more about this overlay method [[Overlay patchwork#Another overlay method|here]]. | ||
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{{:projects:positioning_needles_for_top_stitching_binding.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:positioning_needles_for_top_stitching_binding.jpg?800|}} | ||
- | When preparing rounded pockets, I like to serge the edge first with increased stitch length and differential, so the edges start cupping, which makes it easier to fold the seam allowance. | + | When preparing rounded pockets, I like to serge the edge first with increased stitch length and differential, so that the edges start cupping. This makes it easier to fold the seam allowance. |
Here I started out with regular settings and using a hump jumper to keep the foot level on the binding. | Here I started out with regular settings and using a hump jumper to keep the foot level on the binding. | ||
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{{:projects:finished_pocket.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:finished_pocket.jpg?800|}} | ||
- | Next I have assembled the bottom and top parts, and top stitched those. Then I attached the raglan sleeves and reverse stitched those. For all the top stitching and reverse stitching on this sweater fabric I used the following SETTINGS on my Babylock Coverstitch with regular polyester serger thread in the needles and the looper: | + | Next I assembled the bottom and top parts, and top stitched those. Then I attached the raglan sleeves and reverse stitched those. For all the top stitching and reverse stitching on this sweater fabric I used the following SETTINGS on my Babylock Coverstitch with regular polyester serger thread in the needles and the looper: |
Needle 1 4 | Needle 1 4 | ||
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{{:projects:reverse_top_stitching_needle_positioning.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:reverse_top_stitching_needle_positioning.jpg?800|}} | ||
- | The right needle penetrates just a little to the right of the overlocking seam thread | + | The right needle penetrates just a little to the right of the left overlocking needle thread. |
{{:projects:seam_line_completely_covered_by_reverse_stitches.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:seam_line_completely_covered_by_reverse_stitches.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | The result is a seam line that is completely covered by the decorative coverstitch looper thread. | ||
+ | And in case you ever wondered if adult raglan sleeves pass through the Babylock harp?? They do!! | ||
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{{:projects:babylock_with_adult_raglan_sleeve_through_narrow_harp.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:babylock_with_adult_raglan_sleeve_through_narrow_harp.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | Next the side seams were closed and notice that it is important to accurately match top stitching lines for a continuous effect. | ||
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+ | {{:projects:when_the_seams_match.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | Here with sleeve bands and top stitching | ||
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+ | {{:projects:top_stitching_the_sleeve_bands.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | Preparing the hem | ||
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{{:projects:pressing_the_hem.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:pressing_the_hem.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | The finished hem | ||
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{{:projects:reverse_stitched_hem.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:reverse_stitched_hem.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | Applying double sided tape to the front edges to position the zipper | ||
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{{:projects:preparing_double_sided_tape_for_zipper.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:preparing_double_sided_tape_for_zipper.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | Attaching the zipper with a regular sewing machine | ||
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{{:projects:attach_zipper.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:attach_zipper.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | When folding the zipper, I used a small piece of double sided tape to keep the bulky seam line in place. | ||
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+ | {{:projects:avoid_zipper_slipping_with_tape.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | Looks OK? | ||
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{{:projects:position_zipper_for_matching_seams.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:position_zipper_for_matching_seams.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | The zipper should be longer than the project so that a few teeth can be removed and the zipper band can be trimmed as needed. | ||
+ | |||
{{:projects:use_larger_zipper_and_trim.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:use_larger_zipper_and_trim.jpg?800|}} | ||
- | {{:projects:avoid_zipper_slipping_with_tape.jpg?800|}} | + | |
+ | Top stitching as close to the teeth as possible | ||
{{:projects:top_stitch_zipper_as_close_to_teeth_as_possible.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:top_stitch_zipper_as_close_to_teeth_as_possible.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | And this is what it looks like on the wrong side | ||
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{{:projects:zipper_from_the_wrong_side.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:zipper_from_the_wrong_side.jpg?800|}} | ||
+ | When top stitching the zipper, it is important to keep the layers from shifting so I use a thread ripper to gently press down in front of the sewing foot. | ||
{{:projects:gently_keep_layers_together_while_top_stitching_to_avoid_shifting.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:gently_keep_layers_together_while_top_stitching_to_avoid_shifting.jpg?800|}} | ||
- | {{:projects:carefully_hand_sew_thread_tails.jpg?800|}} | ||
+ | As I reach the end, I usually turn the wheel by hand to finish the last couple of stitches and the tails need to be secured properly. | ||
- | | + | {{:projects:carefully_hand_sew_thread_tails.jpg?800|}} |
+ | The hood parts were assembled and hemmed. | ||
{{:projects:hemming_the_hood_with_reverse_stitching.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:hemming_the_hood_with_reverse_stitching.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | Before turning to the serger, I attached the extremities of the hood with a few stitches to the front of the jacket. | ||
{{:projects:attaching_the_hood_starting_with_a_few_stitches_on_sewing_machine.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:attaching_the_hood_starting_with_a_few_stitches_on_sewing_machine.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | And another row of top stitching | ||
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{{:projects:trim_the_point_and_carefully_top_stitch_the_hood_close_to_zipper_turn_handwheel_by_hand.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:trim_the_point_and_carefully_top_stitch_the_hood_close_to_zipper_turn_handwheel_by_hand.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | When starting on the edge, I always use a hump jumper to help the edge move forward and I hold on to the thread tails to make sure that the stitches start forming right away. | ||
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{{:projects:top_stitching_the_hood_starting_on_hump_jumper_hold_the_thread_tails.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:top_stitching_the_hood_starting_on_hump_jumper_hold_the_thread_tails.jpg?800|}} | ||
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+ | Not too bad! | ||
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{{:projects:finished_top_stitching_hood.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:finished_top_stitching_hood.jpg?800|}} | ||
- | {{:projects:when_the_seams_match.jpg?800|}} | + | And TADA...... one more finished jacket. |
- | {{:projects:top_stitching_the_sleeve_bands.jpg?800|}} | + | |
{{:projects:zippered_jacket_finished.jpg?800|}} | {{:projects:zippered_jacket_finished.jpg?800|}} |